#Wood wine rack how to#

Let the blade do the work and push through at the pace that your jigsaw allows. Neither will be the end of the world, but it is nice to have a good, snug fit.Īs you’re cutting out your slots, you want to be careful not to apply pressure to the jigsaw blade. If you cut on the outside of your line, you might have gaps in your wine rack. If you cut on the inside of the line, the slot will be too small. Try to stay as close to your line as possible.

STEP 5: CUT YOUR SLOTSįollow the lines that you drew with your jigsaw to cut out the pieces. This scrap wood will help support the wood fibers on the other side and help prevent tearout. Tip: place a scrap piece of wood underneath your boards as you’re drilling through. You don’t want it to be angled or the hole in your second board won’t be in the right spot. Make sure you keep the drill bit nice and straight as you go through. Place your ¾” drill bit on the mark you made in step 3 and drill all the way through both your boards. Repeat this with all of the areas that you’re going to cut out. Then find the center of the area you are cutting. Measure ¾” in from the 6.25″ center line you marked. Now that you’ve marked where you’re going to cut, we need to mark where we’re going to drill. The slight variation in the slot sizes (that you likely can’t even see) allows a little bit of wiggle room for unknown variables like exact plywood thickness. Likely, the boards you cut down originally won’t be perfectly precise, which means that the measurements we provide of distances might not work for your particular piece anyway. We decided not to adjust them to 1/16” or 1/32” precision because it’s difficult to cut plywood that precisely and because your particular plywood might be slightly larger or thinner than we accounted for. Note: If you are worried about the difference, you can adjust the measurements of your original cuts. Since they are such small measurements, you’ll never notice. Grab a shelf and mark the other side of the notch.įinally, measure 3 13/16” from one of the lines you just marked and trace a shelf.Īgain, one of the holes will be slightly (1/16”) smaller than the rest. Then measure 3 13/16” from the lines you just marked. Grab one of your shelves and use it to mark how wide you should cut your notches. Next, measure and mark 3 13/16” from each side and draw a line to the middle. They will be cut from the front to the middle, so you will cut through the edge banding on these. Since plywood isn’t exactly ¾” thick, it’s better to use the plywood as a guide of where to mark rather than relying on measuring alone.įor the vertical boards, you’ll cut five notches into the plywood. Trace the other side of the plywood to mark where you will cut out.

Then grab your vertical boards or scrap plywood and line them up with the line that you drew. Then, measure 3 ⅞” from either 12.5” end of the shelf.ĭraw a line at 3 ⅞” in from the back of the shelf to the middle of the shelf (6.25”) on either end. The three compartments won’t be 100% even, but they will be so close that you’ll never notice.įirst, measure and mark the halfway point of the shelf at 6.25”. For the horizontal shelves, measure and mark the first pair and then you can place the cut boards on top of the non-cut boards and trace where to cut, instead of remeasuring.įor the horizontal shelves, you’ll cut two notches into the plywood and they will be cut from the back to the middle (so don’t cut through the edge banding on these). Note: if you tape them together, you’ll only have to mark/cut the vertical boards once. Make sure they are lined up on all sides and taped together well enough that they won’t move apart when drilling or cutting. Since all the pieces need to be cut as close to the same as possible for a square and snug fit, we taped two pieces together so that we could cut them at the same time.

#Wood wine rack how to#

The front edge of the top/bottom boards (aka one of the 13.5” sides)įor a detailed tutorial on how to apply edge banding so that it lasts, check out this post.

The front edge of the vertical boards (aka one of the 26.5” sides).

The front edge of the sides (aka one of the 26.5” sides).

The front edge of each of the shelves (aka one of the 13” sides).

We applied edge banding to the following pieces: If you are planning to display your wine rack on a countertop, you might want to finish the sides that will be visible from the sides/back as well. Since our wine rack was going inside a cabinet, we only finished the sides that would be facing towards the front. Once you have your boards all cut, it’s time to finish the plywood edges on the boards that you’ll see.